Storms and Celebrations in Charleston, and Taking the Alternate Route

In my last post I mentioned that our time in Charleston was wrapping up, but the weather gods had different ideas....

As Steve was finishing the projects at Bridgette's apartment, a tropical system named Debby was gathering strength in the southern Caribbean. 

Slowly, but surely, Hurricane Debby made her way northward with a path that was projected to go from the west coast of Florida, across Georgia and straight over Charleston. We weren't particularly worried since we expected that she would lose energy during the pass over Georgia. Unfortunately, the county park officials decided to close the marina, and no one was allowed to stay on their boat. Oh, and they gave us three hours' notice to evacuate!

We had already begun securing Starry Night, but thought we would have a full day longer to finish. We managed to get the essentials done within the allotted time and then left our home to the elements. Steve used the opportunity to visit a family member out of state, but I opted not to make the trip with him. Jake is fifteen now, and long drives are difficult for him since he has severe arthritis in his hind legs. Bridgette kindly allowed Jake and I to crash at her apartment for two days until the marina reopened.

Preparing for Hurricane Debby: Securing Starry Night

Bridgette's new kitten, Nova, was particularly enthralled with Jake's tail 🤣

The Indignity of It All!

After two days the marina informed us that we wouldn't be allowed back on our boats for two additional days, so Jake and I moved to a nearby hotel. A friend of Bridgette's was traveling from out of town and had already been planning to stay with Bridgette. Five adults, two dogs, a kitten and a snake are a bit of a crowd for a one-bedroom, one-bath apartment!!

I chose an inexpensive motel nearby and enjoyed watching the Olympic games while waiting out the storm. The first-floor room was especially convenient for Jake. 

Charleston Creekside Inn

After four days, we were allowed to return to Starry Night, and Jake and I found everything was as we left it. Although some areas of Charleston had severe flooding, there were no issues at Bridgette's, the motel, or at the marina. Steve returned the next morning. 

Even if weather had permitted us to leave Charleston in early August, as planned, we would have rented a car to return to Charleston on August 10th for the MUSC (Medical University of South Caroline) Class of 2028 White Coat Ceremony. 

Bridgette's White Coat Ceremony

I had always thought a white coat ceremony was conducted at the end of medical school, but I have since learned that the timing is inconsistent between various institutions but typically occurs early in the process. The ceremony is meant to recognize and emphasize the responsibility that the students are accepting as they begin their career in medicine.

The MUSC ceremony was very well done, with several speakers who conveyed the importance of true learning, as opposed to just getting good grades. Sincere commitment by the faculty to support the students was evident, and it was a truly moving ceremony. 

After the ceremony Steve and I started watching for appropriate sailing conditions again, and while we were waiting, Steve finished up the projects at Bridgette's apartment and participated in a TMS (transcranial magnetic stimulation) study at MUSC.  Bridgette had worked in the TMS lab and conducted similar studies so this gave Steve an opportunity to see what she did while she was there. 

Creating a Comfortable Study Space

You Can Never Have Enough Bookshelves

Coffee Station

Kitchen Shelves: Also Important

Workbench

Participating in a TMS Study at MUSC

We finally found a suitable window and set our course to Southport, NC on August 19th. We had hoped to do a 48-hour trip to Cape Lookout, but the wind was predicted to shift from a south wind to coming from the north after 24 hours.

The sailing was very nice for about two-thirds of the trip. The wind shifted - as expected - and we had to motor the final third of the way. We made it further than planned, though, and anchored in Wrightsville Beach on the afternoon of the 20th. 

Wrightsville Beach Anchorage

One of the things that Steve and I have learned during the last couple of years is that we're not "free spirits". (I can envision all of you who know us rolling your eyes. Newsflash? I don't think so). Anyway... we are adventurous, yes, but definitely not footloose and fancy free. Our families and friends are very important to us, and we have never been able to just go where the wind takes us and free ourselves from schedules and commitments. This is not because we feel an obligation, but because we truly want to be part of lives of our loved ones.  We will soon be away from Starry Night for a relatively extended period of time, and since we needed to haul her out for some repairs, we decided to quickly make our way to Deltaville, VA so that we would be available when needed.

After our trip to Wrightsville, there were no favorable sailing conditions for weeks on end and so we once again found ourselves transiting daily via the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway).

Our first stop after Wrightsville Beach was Swansboro, a place with a town dock, where we had stopped once before. The weather that day was so beautiful that I really didn't mind the fact that we had to motor the whole way. We arrived at dinnertime and, as I prepared the lines for docking, I could see that we had an audience. One of the local restaurants overlooks the dock, and the outdoor seating was fully occupied. A couple from one of the already-docked boats saw us arrive and offered a hand with the line; I gladly accepted. Steve then proceeded to back into our slip like a consummate professional and we tied off quickly and efficiently. While we were adjusting the lines, several of the restaurant patrons came by and congratulated us on our docking maneuvers. I was thrilled because we don't always make it look that easy!!

We took advantage of the dockside restaurant that evening, where we started with delicious buffalo shrimp. I followed the shrimp with an excellent salad: spinach with strawberries, feta cheese, candied walnuts and just a hint of apple cider dressing.  It was absolutely perfect. 

Delicious!

The next day, we motored from Swansboro to Oriental. Oriental is a sailing mecca and also has a town dock. Unfortunately, after winding our way to the town dock we found that it is was very small; Oriental is definitely not a catamaran mecca. Luckily there was an anchorage less than an hour away in Broad Creek and we were able to stop there for the night.

On August 23rd we traveled from Broad Creek to Belhaven, another small town which welcomes those cruising the ICW. We tried two of the local restaurants there: Fish Hooks Cafe for dinner and Farm Boy for breakfast. Steve had been hoping for a biscuit with country ham and he was not disappointed.

Belhaven Historic Town Hall

Downtown Belhaven

There were several other restaurants in town, one being a high-end restaurant that was totally packed! 

Belhaven is apparently more of a destination than I thought at first glance!

Belhaven Restaurants

View from the Belhaven Town Dock

Starry Night in the Belhaven Anchorage

We found very cheap diesel at the marina next to our anchorage and met a couple in a trawler, who were also northbound. They made better time than we did and found an anchorage near the Alligator River Bridge at the end of the day. The captain kindly contacted us vis radio to let us know of the anchorage. We had hoped to get to an anchorage further north at the mouth of the river, but the wind was on our nose all day and the river was quite bumpy; we were happy to have the recommendation for a closer anchorage.

The next morning, I lifted the anchor and brought up a tree stump with it. Fortunately, I was able to free the anchor relatively easily this time. From the mouth of the Alligator River, there are two potential inland routes, The Dismal Swamp Route and The Virginia Cut Route. We have always taken the Virginia Cut Route, but opted to travel via the Dismal Swamp so that we could take advantage of the wind and put out the jib.

We had another bumpy ride as we motor-sailed across Albemarle Sound to Elizabeth City, which made for an uncomfortable passage for Jake. He's gotten increasingly sensitive to the loud knocks of the waves hitting the hull and the pitching and rolling motions of the boat in unsettled conditions. Thankfully the distances between potential stops were such that we reached our next stop, Elizabeth City, after a short day. We docked early in the afternoon and were able to give Jake a break from his discomfort. 

There are several free docks in Elizabeth City, and we found one of them completely empty. It is owned by a local food distributor, Jennett Brothers. All they ask is that you dine at one of the local establishments each day that you are docked there. 

Jennett Brothers Free Dock in Elizabeth City, NC

We took Jake for a walk after docking and then went ashore to check out Elizabeth City. The downtown had several restaurants and breweries as well as a small museum but, unfortunately, it was Sunday and many of the establishments were closed. 

We did manage to find an open brewery in Pailin's Alley and enjoyed an afternoon refreshment.

Pailin's Alley in Elizabeth City

Enjoying a Local Brew at Ghost Harbor Brewing Company

The next morning was foggy and very still. Our intended destination was Hampton Roads, VA which was a full day's travel of 55 NM and we were hopeful that, without stout headwinds, we'd make good time. Alas, it was not to be.

Early Morning Departure from Elizabeth City

The Dismal Swamp

The water was calm and the scenery was beautiful, but Steve soon found out that this was another place not meant for catamarans and especially not sailing catamarans! The "ditch", as the ICW in this area is called, was exceedingly narrow and difficult to traverse due to the overhanging tree limbs and submerged stumps. It became particularly challenging when Steve had to avoid branches overhead and floating logs, simultaneously!

The Ditch

While navigating the obstacles required focused attention, what really prevented us from reaching Hampton Roads were the two locks and the lift bridge which each required wait time to pass. We arrived at the Gilmerton Lift Bridge at rush hour, when there is a two-hour window with no lifts. Since we had to wait over an hour, we pulled to the side of the waterway and anchored. We had not looked carefully at the details of the route ahead and time and hadn't factored the timing into our planning. This was a lesson already learned but forgotten.  Luckily, our timing was about as good as it could have been, and we wouldn't have been able to make it to Hampton Roads in any case.

We found a good anchorage in Portsmouth, VA and adjusted our plan to accommodate a slightly longer trip to Deltaville the next day. 

We woke to another very still day on the 27th and left early. The Chesapeake was like glass and was only interrupted by pods of bait fish all around us. We motored the whole day, but unlike the rest of the trip from Charleston to Virginia, we actually got a boost from the current for at least a portion of the time.

Bait Pod in the Chesapeake

We arrived at Deltaville, right on schedule, at 5 pm and I breathed a sigh of relief knowing that we would be taking a break from the forced march of the ICW. 

We got up the next morning with no real "must do" tasks on our list. The pool at our "home away from home" at the Jackson Creek Marina had not yet been closed for the season and it was nearly 90 degrees outside. Steve and I relaxed in refreshing water and enjoyed a bit of downtime. 

It seems unbelievable that summer is almost over, but kids everywhere have returned to school and Labor Day has come and gone. Steve and I are in different locations again right now. He is still in Deltaville working on boat projects, and Jake and I are visiting Jessie and Will at their home near Baltimore. 

Until next time....Happy Fall, y'all!