Any Port in a Storm?

 

While Jessie and Will were held captive at the Nassau airport, Steve and I spent the day after our arrival at the marina in Nassau preparing for our next guest, Daniele, a former coworker and good friend of ours from Siemens. 

Relaxed Afternoon with Daniele

We also spent time adjusting Starry Night's dock lines since we had been placed in a "double-wide" slip, C2, as shown below. 

This meant that we had short lines on our starboard side so that we could get on and off the boat, but very long lines on the port side so that we could tie-off to the pilings on the port side dock.  We also had lines from the stern to the dock behind us but the choice of attachment points was quite limited. The process of tying up to a dock is actually much more complicated than it seems at first blush. Each degree of freedom needs to be considered to ensure that the boat is not pushed into the dock as the wind shifts and tide changes.  

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Marina Map

Securing Starry Night in a Double-Wide Space

By Saturday afternoon the laundry was done, the boat was secured in preparation for the impending winds, and we were ready to greet Daniele. Her scheduled arrival time came and went and she was still sitting in the Orlando airport. Thankfully her delay was only a few hours instead of a whole day and she arrived that evening.

The wind that had been predicted arrived Sunday morning and was in the 30 knot range, i.e. pretty gusty but not at tropical storm level we had seen the previous week. What we did not anticipate, however, was the chaos caused by the interaction between the winds, current, wakes at the marina! 

As soon as the wind started, it was "all hands on deck" at every single boat in the marina - something I had never seen before.  Every boat owner was outside checking and adjusting their lines and sometimes just sitting on top of the boat because to sit inside would have resulted in a pretty bad case of seasickness.  As shown in the photo below, every boat was rocking and rolling and the motions were not in phase with one another.  We were very thankful to be in a catamaran since we don't roll side to side like a monohull. we were anything but stationary,however, and Starry Night's motion was a very strange one; she was being moved in a square pattern.  We would move to the right until the port line pulled taut, then move forward until the aft line tightened, then to the left and then to the back. It became clear why there had been openings at this marina...it was truly the most uncomfortable dockage we have ever experienced.

Sunday Morning at the Dock

Although we had winds too high on Sunday and Monday to be able to leave for the Exumas, the weather was actually lovely so Daniele and I took advantage of the time to explore Nassau, something I had not had an opportunity to do until then. Steve stayed at the boat, continuing the many steps required to repair the anchor locker. 

The first landmark that Daniele and I came across was an obelisk at Western Esplanade which commemorates the gallantry of five men who died in 1861 in an attempt to save two men who were caught in a storm.

Memorial to Selfless Men

Our next stop was Fort Charlotte, which was commissioned by Lord Dunmore during the British Colonial period. It was built between 1787 and 1790. The fort, which never saw battle, overlooks Nassau Harbour. The tour was inexpensive and informative and, I thought, worth a visit.

Tour Guide at Fort Charlotte

Tourists at Fort Charlotte

18th Century Graffiti

After our tour of the fort, Daniele and I continued westward to Saunders Beach so I could show her one of our previous anchorages.

Saunders Beach, Nassau

That evening, Daniele treated us to dinner out and we went to one of the places that we had heard was a "must-do" in Nassau - the Fish Fry.

I had thought the Fish Fry was a single restaurant, but it turns out to be an enclave of restaurants which serve local fare.  Each restaurant had someone standing out front with menus, accosting passersby and extolling the virtues of their particular establishment. We selected one and the food was, indeed delicious.  Our only disappointment was that several of the items we ordered were not available. This was a recurring theme - and I guess, unsurprising - in the Bahamas.

Dinner Out at the Fish Fry

Monday, Daniele and I continued our tour of Nassau, this time heading east toward Nassau's famous straw market and the Queen's Staircase. 

                              Capturing the Sights in Nassau

Along our way we passed the Parliament Building with a statue of Queen Victoria, a reminder that the Bahamas was a British Colony until 1973.

Queen Victoria Presiding Over the Bahamas Parliament Building

Mural En Route to the Queen's Staircase

After following the Google Map directions through one of the poorer sections of Nassau, we arrived at the Queen's Staircase.  The stairs were carved from solid limestone by 600 slaves in 1793/1794 as an escape route from Fort Fincastle. 

The Queen's Staircase, Nassau

Daniele in the Walkway at the Foot of The Queen's Staircase

Since we were docked longer than we had been with our other guests, Daniele witnessed (and documented!) some of the more mundane aspects of boat life. 

Laura Literally Slings Hash!

Stowing Tools in Preparation for Departure

                

Making Notes for Future Blogs

Hangin' Out with Jake

In addition to participating in everyday boat life, Daniele also experienced some of the stress that comes with boat life. During the three days that we remained at this marina, Starry Night moved continually in "square pattern" that I described earlier. What I didn't mention is that this motion was accompanied by incessant and disturbing noise. Stretching ropes "groan" loudly; waves and wakes slap, bang and knock; sometimes there are noises which sound as if something is breaking. The noise was continual and none of slept well for three nights. In fact, Jake was so stressed that one day he stayed in bed all day, didn't eat, and didn't move. On our last day at the marina, the load was so high that one of our dock lines actually failed in tension.  This was no undersized rope either...5/8' diameter.

Steve Keeps Jake Company

Finally on Tuesday, we were able to leave the marina to head for a more relaxing destination. A couple of our neighbors and acquaintances at the marina came over to help us as we released Starry Night's lines.  This was incredibly helpful since there was still enough wind and churned up water in the marina that the boat was being pushed around dramatically.  This was also part of Daniele's "Premium Package, All Inclusive Boat Life Experience".  She was put to work releasing lines and got to witness the elevated adrenaline (and raised voices) that come with challenging conditions. In fact, as we began our sail to Shroud Cay, I was as stressed as I have ever been since Steve and I started this adventure two and a half years ago. I don't know if it was the three sleepless nights, the fact that - even on a dock - I was no longer feeling safe and in control, or whether it was the fact that nearly every week since we had been in the Bahamas this year we had significant wind events or mechanical issues of some sort.  Maybe it was a combination of all of those things.  At any rate, as we left I began wondering if this lifestyle is worth it.

Although the experience wasn't fun for Steve either, he maintained his composure and also knew exactly how to help me reset my equilibrium. Before heading down to our cabin for a nap, he suggested that I put on some music. I selected Stevie Wonder, and within minutes, I was singing, smiling, and discussing the healing power of music with Daniele. She also helped me to put my experience into perspective. As the day wore on and we resumed the familiar routine of sailing, my stress diminished and my confidence returned. 

We spent the next day at Shroud Cay, one of our favorite locations, which is equipped with mooring balls. Here, Steve was able to replace the anchor roller which was the last step required to get back to a functional anchoring system. Daniele and I swam, walked, did a bit of yoga, and later - when Steve joined us - looked for turtles. This was the Bahamas that I had wanted to share :-)

Fun in the Sun

Turtle at Shroud Cay

Sunset at Shroud Cay

On Thursday, we needed to leave Shroud Cay to find an anchorage that would be protected from the projected change in wind direction.  We chose to return to Allan's Cay, where we spent Friday snorkeling, reading and relaxing. 

Sponges

Cowfish

Blueheaded Wrasse

On Saturday we returned to Nassau, this time anchoring at Saunders Beach.  Our eventful week was coming to a close and Daniele made arrangements for an 8 am taxi to the airport. I'd like to give a shout out here to Daniele (and to all of our friends who have visited us in the Bahamas):  

YOU ARE AWESOME.

Regardless of circumstances and discomfort, you all pitched in to help, never complained, and enjoyed the ride. Having you with us to share the beauty of life is what makes it all worthwhile. 

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